Cartier... Could I? I did...

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Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by gaf1958 »

At the very start of March this year, we were supposed to head off on a six month holiday. Oh, the heady days before COVID hit... We overnighted in Sydney before boarding the ship and my wife decided to call in to some of the city watch shops and look at some Cartier watches. She’d been looking at them online for some time, but this was the first lengthy hands-on with them and she decided on a mid-sized Tank Solo on a bracelet. A deal was struck and off we went.

The cruise started the following day, but lasted only nine days before we left the ship in Fremantle Western Australia. Nonetheless in that nine days, I managed to look at all of the onboard watch shops (many times) and perused a number of Cartiers for myself... There were a number of models that I liked a lot, but one in particular was just stunning. And no, it’s not a Tank... It has a case that is somehow a throwback to the seventies, yet looks very contemporary. It has the classic silvery white dial, with Roman numerals and a round dial, but has no rounded cabachon sapphire on the crown... however it does have a blue half cylinder sapphire set into the crown. Unlike many Cartier models, this was introduced a mere five years ago...

Figured it out yet? It’s a 40mm Clé de Cartier, a relatively new model for the company, originally introduced at SIHH in 2015, only available in solid 18k white, yellow and rose gold, with a price tag to match, particularly so when on a precious metal bracelet. Cartier introduced a more affordable steel model a little under two years later, but my first introduction to the model came onboard the ship early this year.

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From the moment I put it on my wrist, I was smitten. The curvaceous case hugged my wrist, like it was a bespoke design, crafted specifically for me. Added to the comfort factor were its good looks. Now I typically like a diver or a chronograph more than the average dress watch, but this thing combines dress watch with overtones of seventies diver wrapped in sheer class. There are no sharp creases or corners on the case; it’s very fluid. I found it gobsmackingly lovely.

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The clé, or key, shaped crown looks like it could be difficult to use, but in reality it’s simply different, rather than difficult - Rather than a conventional finger and thumb twist, I sort of twirl it with one finger; sounds odd, but it’s actually quite easy. Inside the watch is Cartier’s in-house calibre 1847 MC movement, visible through the sapphire exhibition case back. With a power reserve of 42 hours and 28,800 bph, it’s not a headline act, but at this price it’s nice to have a solid in-house mechanism beating away inside the case instead of the more ubiquitous ETA or Sellita movements.

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Interestingly it seems that the Clé is only theoretically in stock in Australia; I had to special order mine in. I did nonetheless get a healthy discount by using the AD from which we bought my wife’s Cartier, compared to the list price only approach of the Cartier boutiques. It arrived yesterday, and it’s interesting that the bracelet is quite short compared to many - the untouched bracelet (still with the pale yellow protection tape on it) is only slightly larger than my 7.25” wrist. Removing one link makes for a snug fit; tomorrow will tell if it’s too snug, or whether I go back up a link.

Disappointingly, there are no half links in the bracelet; something I would really welcome as I think that might be the best fit for the bracelet... The bracelet itself has two double slot headed screw pins per link. The two headed pins are the usual pain to remove, but two pins per link means the bracelet pivots well and wraps around the wrist nicely; it continues the standard set by the case. The bracelet is elegantly thin, yet still seems quite sturdy. Surprisingly the bracelet has no taper, it’s 20mm wide all the way around. The link design is lovely; the butterfly clasp however, could do with some clever micro adjustment options built into it. Even half links would do...


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And finally, here is is alongside my wife’s Tank Solo...

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Re: Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by tikkathree »

Oh my!
I didn't start reading this post in a place of "Cartier adoration" nontheless you tell a good tale.
That bracelet is a peach and your underside photo requires careful study; somewhere there's a clasp. You tease us with a description of the link screws but then leave us hanging photographically. Would a tapered bracelet look and feel different? I think it would. What's the lug width - 18mm or 20mm?

For me I think it would be an "under the cuff" watch rather than a bare arm watch but now I'm interested to hear how your experience develops.
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Re: Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by Amor Vincit Omnia »

Well, I suppose you could anticipate what my thoughts would be. It’s superb, Gary. Congratulations on a very fine acquisition, and welcome to the Cartier Club*!

Indeed, a very fine though rather different pair.

:clap: :clap: :clap:

*First rule of Cartier Club? You do talk about Cartier Club!
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Re: Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by nbg »

A good write up Gary. :thumbup:

I can see the reasons that you like the case shape of that one. So do I. The dial also looks very sharp. Nicely done. :)

What is the WR?

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Re: Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by gaf1958 »

tikkathree wrote: Sat Aug 08, 2020 6:38 am Oh my!
I didn't start reading this post in a place of "Cartier adoration" nontheless you tell a good tale.
That bracelet is a peach and your underside photo requires careful study; somewhere there's a clasp. You tease us with a description of the link screws but then leave us hanging photographically. Would a tapered bracelet look and feel different? I think it would. What's the lug width - 18mm or 20mm?

For me I think it would be an "under the cuff" watch rather than a bare arm watch but now I'm interested to hear how your experience develops.
Thanks Pete, I understand where you're coming from in a way, as while I've alway's liked Steve's Tank, it never really occurred to me that a Cartier could make it into my collection.... then my wife started looking at them and of course, I was dragged in... complaining all the way of course! The more I looked, the more I liked them, well some of them, with this one being the standout for me.

So... would a tapered bracelet be better? I don't know, maybe, but only to 18mm, as I think 16mm would be a little to far. The lugs by the way are 20mm and yes, somewhere along that strap, there is a clasp and even in good lighting in real life it's not always easy to find! :shock: Oh, and double ended screw pins are always a b***h to remove - they don't deserve a photo. ;)

P.S. I'm a retired guy, in a sub-tropical climate. What's a shirt cuff?
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Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by gaf1958 »

Amor Vincit Omnia wrote: Well, I suppose you could anticipate what my thoughts would be. It’s superb, Gary. Congratulations on a very fine acquisition, and welcome to the Cartier Club*!

*First rule of Cartier Club? You do talk about Cartier Club!
Thanks Steve, I had a feeling that even if no-one else appreciated it, you'd like it. ;) And yes, there will undoubtedly be Cartier Club talk along the way too...
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Re: Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by gaf1958 »

nbg wrote: Sat Aug 08, 2020 8:06 am What is the WR?
Neil, I think it's one of those things best left unmentioned. Oh all right I'll mention that it's embarrassingly low at on 30m. Getting caught in the rain might be acceptable, but not much more than that.
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Re: Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by Thegreyman »

Congratulations Gary on a fine acquisition. It's a slightly more conventional looking Cartier than say a Tank or Santos but still recognisably a Cartier with its superb Guilloche dial and the unconventional crown.

It definitely looks a versatile watch that could be dressed up of course but also I think dressed down quite easily with a pair of jeans (or shorts for a retired guy in a sub-tropical climate :))
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Post by StrappedUp »

30m??
I guess we won't be seeing many beach shots of this Gary, although you're not exactly short of sufficient WR options :lol:

It's a lovely looking Cartier and one I've not seen before.
From what I can tell, the numerals are blue on this model? If so, I bet it would look awesome on a dark blue alligator leather as an alternative to the bracelet.

Also, that's an interesting crown arrangement. Is it still a standard/thin stem with the block on the end?
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Re: Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by stefs »

It’s gorgeous Gary.
I think it is only when you look at these up close and get a chance to handle them you realise just how nice they are. If I didnt already have a posh watch in my reverso I think I would have been sorely tempted by a ballon bleu.
Not cheap watches but they are lovely. Enjoy it
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Re: Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by gaf1958 »

Thegreyman wrote:Congratulations Gary on a fine acquisition. It's a slightly more conventional looking Cartier than say a Tank or Santos but still recognisably a Cartier with its superb Guilloche dial and the unconventional crown.
Thanks Patrick. At the same time that is more of a conventional watch than most Cartiers, it’s simultaneously less of a conventional Cartier... if that makes sense.
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Re: Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by Amor Vincit Omnia »

gaf1958 wrote: Sat Aug 08, 2020 12:03 pm At the same time that is more of a conventional watch than most Cartiers, it’s simultaneously less of a conventional Cartier... if that makes sense.
Perfect sense, and what I was thinking. Ask most people to draw a Cartier watch and they will come up with some kind of Tank or Santos.

By the way, Gary, any chance of a close up of what that crown does?
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Re: Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by gaf1958 »

StrappedUp wrote:It's a lovely looking Cartier and one I've not seen before. From what I can tell, the numerals are blue on this model? If so, I bet it would look awesome on a dark blue alligator leather as an alternative to the bracelet.

Also, that's an interesting crown arrangement. Is it still a standard/thin stem with the block on the end?
It’s certainly one I was also unaware of Ryan, at least prior to March. The blue strap is probably along the lines of what I was thing of as a bracelet alternative. Actually, I’m unsure if the numerals are black, or an extremely dark blue. Every time I think it’s one, another look makes me think it’s the other. I’m confused... :lol:

The crown stem is just like any other one, it’s only the crown that is different. Setting the time or winding it, is done by twirling one end of the crown in a small circle; different, but very easy.
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Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by gaf1958 »

stefs wrote:It’s gorgeous Gary.
I think it is only when you look at these up close and get a chance to handle them you realise just how nice they are. If I didnt already have a posh watch in my reverso I think I would have been sorely tempted by a ballon bleu.
Not cheap watches but they are lovely. Enjoy it
Ta Paul, of course I knew they made nice watches, but it’s when you see them in real life that they really sucker you in...

...and I need to take another look at the Ballon Bleu... :|
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Re: Cartier... Could I? I did...

Post by gaf1958 »

Amor Vincit Omnia wrote:By the way, Gary, any chance of a close up of what that crown does?
Maybe some shots tomorrow Steve?
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