bracelet reassurance required!
- Thegreyman
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Re: bracelet reassurance required!
^^good idea, PM me if you need help, shall we say £10 a pop
Patrick
C60 Pro 300, C60 Sunrise, C63 Sealander Lucerne blue LE, C65 Dartmouth, W11 Amelia (wife), C63 Sealander (son)
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- TigerChris
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Re: bracelet reassurance required!
Bargain mateThegreyman wrote:^^good idea, PM me if you need help, shall we say £10 a pop
Re: bracelet reassurance required!
Hi Patrick a few observations from me re. using one of these (I have the original Bergeron 6825):Thegreyman wrote:^^good idea, PM me if you need help, shall we say £10 a pop
- I think the fine tips are because the gap on a the rear of the link that you stick the fork in tends to be small with Rolex bracelets
- you can buy slightly thicker tip forks for a 6825, which will probably be better for CW and Omega bracelets
- I managed to break a bit of one side of one of the forks, within a few hours when it slipped
- did you angle the forks, or use the tool with them straight, as per your pics? (I have found it easier when angled)
Neil
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- gaf1958
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bracelet reassurance required!
Patrick,
I also have the Bergeon and looking at your photos I can see one difference. The forks on the Bergeon have the flat sides facing outward - the reverse of yours.
The flat side outwards means the fork can slide closely down the inner sides of the lugs giving maximum chance to slip past the flanges on the spring bars allowing the fork legs to do their job. Facing the other way (curve out) means the fork legs have to push at an angle to the flames to force the spring bar ends in - which could explain why they break.
I also have the forks angled inward, meaning that when the forceps are open, the forks are parallel to each other, I find it easier when removing spring bars.
All of the above relate to removal, probably slightly less so in replacements...
P.S. The scooter is looking good mate
CW C1+2xC3+6xC6/60K+C7+C11+3xC60T+2xC65+C90+2xC600
Omega Ω 11xSpeedy+14xSeamaster+4xConnie+DeVille
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- gaf1958
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Re: bracelet reassurance required!
Oh, when I say the forks are angled, I mean like capital H tacked onto the bottom of capital A. ..
CW C1+2xC3+6xC6/60K+C7+C11+3xC60T+2xC65+C90+2xC600
Omega Ω 11xSpeedy+14xSeamaster+4xConnie+DeVille
Cartier+2xPanerai+2xFarer+2xOris+Sinn+11xSeiko+ManyVintage
B&R+Halios+5xVisitor+TagH+6xTissot+2xZelos+4xCertina+more
Family12xCW+2xΩ+Cartier
Omega Ω 11xSpeedy+14xSeamaster+4xConnie+DeVille
Cartier+2xPanerai+2xFarer+2xOris+Sinn+11xSeiko+ManyVintage
B&R+Halios+5xVisitor+TagH+6xTissot+2xZelos+4xCertina+more
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- Thegreyman
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Re: bracelet reassurance required!
Neil, thanks for the info. I might look into buying the thicker tip forks, if you did happen to have a link for those it would be appreciated.nbg wrote:Hi Patrick a few observations from me re. using one of these (I have the original Bergeron 6825):
- I think the fine tips are because the gap on a the rear of the link that you stick the fork in tends to be small with Rolex bracelets
- you can buy slightly thicker tip forks for a 6825, which will probably be better for CW and Omega bracelets
- I managed to break a bit of one side of one of the forks, within a few hours when it slipped
- did you angle the forks, or use the tool with them straight, as per your pics? (I have found it easier when angled)
Neil
I'm in good company if you broke one of the forks too I used the forks straight as per the photos, so I'll try and angle them as you suggest the next time...and drink less wine beforehand too!!
Gary thanks for the tips. The forks can be swivelled around so I will try that next time and will also angle the fork legs as both you and Neil suggest.gaf1958 wrote: Patrick,
I also have the Bergeon and looking at your photos I can see one difference. The forks on the Bergeon have the flat sides facing outward - the reverse of yours.
The flat side outwards means the fork can slide closely down the inner sides of the lugs giving maximum chance to slip past the flanges on the spring bars allowing the fork legs to do their job. Facing the other way (curve out) means the fork legs have to push at an angle to the flames to force the spring bar ends in - which could explain why they break.
I also have the forks angled inward, meaning that when the forceps are open, the forks are parallel to each other, I find it easier when removing spring bars.
All of the above relate to removal, probably slightly less so in replacements...
P.S. The scooter is looking good mate
Thanks re the Scooter, it felt good to get it back on the bracelet. Next to take the bracelet off the red Jag and get a few straps for that
Patrick
C60 Pro 300, C60 Sunrise, C63 Sealander Lucerne blue LE, C65 Dartmouth, W11 Amelia (wife), C63 Sealander (son)
Some others + a few on the way
C60 Pro 300, C60 Sunrise, C63 Sealander Lucerne blue LE, C65 Dartmouth, W11 Amelia (wife), C63 Sealander (son)
Some others + a few on the way
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