No, that is not true although it originated from a confusing post made about it that could be read that way. I contacted Ewan directly and he assured me that bezels could be swapped without damage to the insert.It'sAliveJim wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 3:50 pmIs this correct? Why is it made like this and why did he take money off everyone for spare bezels they can never fit?Clarky wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 2:15 pm
I ordered a spare bezel as these are a very small run (300 in total) and spare’s are limited, but the bezels can only be fitted once so unlike on a Rolex GMT master for instance you won’t be able to swap between bezels as you destroy the insert to get underneath it to be able to get the bezel off
Newmark 71 Sports diver
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Re: Newmark 71 Sports diver
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Re: Newmark 71 Sports diver
Did he offer any details on how that could be acheived for the layman?FloridaPhil wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 3:59 pmNo, that is not true although it originated from a confusing post made about it that could be read that way. I contacted Ewan directly and he assured me that bezels could be swapped without damage to the insert.It'sAliveJim wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 3:50 pmIs this correct? Why is it made like this and why did he take money off everyone for spare bezels they can never fit?Clarky wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 2:15 pm
I ordered a spare bezel as these are a very small run (300 in total) and spare’s are limited, but the bezels can only be fitted once so unlike on a Rolex GMT master for instance you won’t be able to swap between bezels as you destroy the insert to get underneath it to be able to get the bezel off
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Re: Newmark 71 Sports diver
I emailed him last night for bezel removal instructions. I've done bezel swaps before so I'm confident I can do it but I'd just like his 'official' take on it.
The bezel comes as an entire piece - not just the insert and the 12 hour bezel has a different retaining spring so it becomes bi-directional. That's the part I'd like guidance on.
The bezel comes as an entire piece - not just the insert and the 12 hour bezel has a different retaining spring so it becomes bi-directional. That's the part I'd like guidance on.
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Re: Newmark 71 Sports diver
FloridaPhil wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 3:59 pmNo, that is not true although it originated from a confusing post made about it that could be read that way. I contacted Ewan directly and he assured me that bezels could be swapped without damage to the insert.It'sAliveJim wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 3:50 pmIs this correct? Why is it made like this and why did he take money off everyone for spare bezels they can never fit?Clarky wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2020 2:15 pm
I ordered a spare bezel as these are a very small run (300 in total) and spare’s are limited, but the bezels can only be fitted once so unlike on a Rolex GMT master for instance you won’t be able to swap between bezels as you destroy the insert to get underneath it to be able to get the bezel off
My mistake, I just scanned the instructions supplied and chucked them in the box with the bits.
this is the instructions that the bezel comes with.
4C4D1044-CDEB-48CC-85B8-B4B900529D98 by ClarkyGMT, on Flickr
I guess that means that the first fitting of the bezel and insert is done by attaching the bezel to the watch then placing the insert in to the bezel, after which you can then remove the bezel compleat.
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Re: Newmark 71 Sports diver
Ah, I didn't get an insert with mine.
Okay, yes, that wording was used elsewhere and that's where the confusion arose. When I asked Ewan about it he said that the bezel must be mounted on the watch so that the bezel insert could be correctly aligned the first time it is installed into the bezel. Apparently, he had intended to ship the bezels and inserts as separate pieces but eventually decided to pre-install the insert on the bezel so that section is now moot.
In other words, you can swap the bezels at will. I still would like to see step by step directions on how to do it. I really don't want to take mine to a watchmaker every time I wish to swap from dive to 12 hour.
Okay, yes, that wording was used elsewhere and that's where the confusion arose. When I asked Ewan about it he said that the bezel must be mounted on the watch so that the bezel insert could be correctly aligned the first time it is installed into the bezel. Apparently, he had intended to ship the bezels and inserts as separate pieces but eventually decided to pre-install the insert on the bezel so that section is now moot.
In other words, you can swap the bezels at will. I still would like to see step by step directions on how to do it. I really don't want to take mine to a watchmaker every time I wish to swap from dive to 12 hour.
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Re: Newmark 71 Sports diver
Great! I'm not sure what the stats are but I think this is the minority dial.Galton321 wrote:Tikkatree got exactly the same model and for more or less the same reason. Also really like it. Enjoy.
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C6 & C60 Kingfishers,
C600 Tritechs,
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Re: Newmark 71 Sports diver
Mine went straight onto a sharkmesh in my strap box 'cos I didn't want to wait until I'd sized the nice oe bracelet. 2 weeks on I have no desire to change and mine has got its feet under the rug.Clarky wrote:Those that have received there 71’s, how are you liking them? I’m not 100% sold on the bracelet but i am currently loving it on a Haveston nato. The lume is great on the hands and dial, I charged the watch face with a black light torch last night and it was still glowing away like made this morning 7 hours later
4FD2748A-0CD5-422E-ADD3-9347F00ED82A by ClarkyGMT, on Flickr
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C60 MKI, MKII, MKIII: "some",
C6 & C60 Kingfishers,
C600 Tritechs,
C63 "some",
C65 "some",
C4, C40, C8, C9, C3, C5, C20 & 23FLE
Some other brands
C6 & C60 Kingfishers,
C600 Tritechs,
C63 "some",
C65 "some",
C4, C40, C8, C9, C3, C5, C20 & 23FLE
Some other brands
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Re: Newmark 71 Sports diver
The 12 hour bezel is bi-directional and ratcheted.FloridaPhil wrote:I emailed him last night for bezel removal instructions. I've done bezel swaps before so I'm confident I can do it but I'd just like his 'official' take on it.
The bezel comes as an entire piece - not just the insert and the 12 hour bezel has a different retaining spring so it becomes bi-directional. That's the part I'd like guidance on.
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
C60 MKI, MKII, MKIII: "some",
C6 & C60 Kingfishers,
C600 Tritechs,
C63 "some",
C65 "some",
C4, C40, C8, C9, C3, C5, C20 & 23FLE
Some other brands
C6 & C60 Kingfishers,
C600 Tritechs,
C63 "some",
C65 "some",
C4, C40, C8, C9, C3, C5, C20 & 23FLE
Some other brands
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Re: Newmark 71 Sports diver
Well the above posts make it sound like a fairly standard arrangement which at this price point is what you'd expect. In which case youtube will be your friend, a bezel/watchmakers knife, some clear plastic film (for scratch avoidance) and a patient mind.FloridaPhil wrote:Ah, I didn't get an insert with mine.
Okay, yes, that wording was used elsewhere and that's where the confusion arose. When I asked Ewan about it he said that the bezel must be mounted on the watch so that the bezel insert could be correctly aligned the first time it is installed into the bezel. Apparently, he had intended to ship the bezels and inserts as separate pieces but eventually decided to pre-install the insert on the bezel so that section is now moot.
In other words, you can swap the bezels at will. I still would like to see step by step directions on how to do it. I really don't want to take mine to a watchmaker every time I wish to swap from dive to 12 hour.
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
C60 MKI, MKII, MKIII: "some",
C6 & C60 Kingfishers,
C600 Tritechs,
C63 "some",
C65 "some",
C4, C40, C8, C9, C3, C5, C20 & 23FLE
Some other brands
C6 & C60 Kingfishers,
C600 Tritechs,
C63 "some",
C65 "some",
C4, C40, C8, C9, C3, C5, C20 & 23FLE
Some other brands
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Re: Newmark 71 Sports diver
The CW Trident GMT's are unidirectional so, since this is a CW board, I thought I'd point out that a small company did actually get it right.tikkathree wrote: ↑Thu Jan 16, 2020 2:24 pmWell the above posts make it sound like a fairly standard arrangement which at this price point is what you'd expect. In which case youtube will be your friend, a bezel/watchmakers knife, some clear plastic film (for scratch avoidance) and a patient mind.FloridaPhil wrote:Ah, I didn't get an insert with mine.
Okay, yes, that wording was used elsewhere and that's where the confusion arose. When I asked Ewan about it he said that the bezel must be mounted on the watch so that the bezel insert could be correctly aligned the first time it is installed into the bezel. Apparently, he had intended to ship the bezels and inserts as separate pieces but eventually decided to pre-install the insert on the bezel so that section is now moot.
In other words, you can swap the bezels at will. I still would like to see step by step directions on how to do it. I really don't want to take mine to a watchmaker every time I wish to swap from dive to 12 hour.
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If you have information on how to install the specific bearings for the bezel (there are different designs for the dive and 12 hour versions) please share.
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Re: Newmark 71 Sports diver
Update received this morning from Newmark regarding the bezels. It would appear that the swap is not as easy as, say, an SKX or Turtle bezel that does not have the bearings. On balance, I think the degree of difficulty in swapping the bezels might have been made clearer at the time of ordering but I personally have no intention of requesting a refund. Kudos to Newmark for their transparency now though and their willingness to 'make it right'.
*************
Dear all
This update primarily concerns the spare bezels that some have ordered.
There has been some controversy and disappointment that the bezel on the Newmark 71 isn’t easily removed. I think that some people might have been under the impression that the bezel can be easily popped off with a finger nail or such.
We designed the watch to tight tolerances to ensure that it would be long lasting and robust and of course this included the bezel mechanism. During the campaign we were asked if spare bezels could be made available to which I agreed in order to be as accommodating as possible; I did stress that bezel removal was at owner’s risk and that it was perhaps best left to a watchmaker (who would have the tools and experience required). So the spares were offered in good faith as I am sure you can appreciate.
All spare bezels will have come with a printed sheet detailing what was included with each:
Metal bezel
Bezel insert
3 x Sprung ball bearings
1 x Bezel retaining spring
All the above parts are separate, the bezel insert has just been placed within the bezel itself for protection – it is not attached to the bezel.
Firstly, let’s assume that the original bezel has been removed.
The watch head will show 3 sprung bearings at the 10, 2 and 6 positions. These are in sleeves which need to be removed by using tweezers.
The new bezel is fitted in the following order:
The replacement sprung bearings should be inserted into the holes on the watch head at the 10, 2 and 6 positions
The wire bezel retaining spring should be inserted into the recess running around the inside of the replacement metal bezel. You will notice the ‘flats’ of this spring protruding slightly from the recess – this is what holds the bezel in place with the flats riding within a similar recess on the watch head.
The metal bezel (without insert) should be pressed onto the watch head with equal pressure round its circumference and with a slight anti clockwise rotation as it is pressed. Successful mounting will result in a ‘click’ as the flats of the retaining spring snap into place within the recess on the watch head. This operation may require a little force (again, due to the design and manufacturing tolerances).
At this stage the rotating bezel is now in place on the watch head but without the insert.
The bezel insert features a self-adhesive ring on its underside which is extremely strong. To mount the insert then the paper cover should be removed from the adhesive ring in the first instance. The next stage is where extreme caution must be taken in lining the bezel insert up correctly with the dial markings and pressing into place within the metal bezel itself. It is worth having a ‘dry run’ first with the protective paper attached to get the technique of inserting the insert smoothly.
The newly fitted bezel is now a complete bezel and can be used as such should it need removing and refitting in the future. No need to try and remove the bezel insert!
And so to the chestnut of bezel removal. Firstly, it has to be reiterated that removing the bezel by prying it off with fingernails will all but likely be impossible, dependent of course on how strong your fingernails and indeed fingers are. Not impossible but very unlikely.
Successful bezel removal will rely on equal force being applied around the circumference of the bezel. There is the slightest of gaps between the bezel and the watch case which will allow the correct tool to squeeze the bezel upward and so pulling the flats of the retaining spring out of the recess in the watch head.
A competent watchmaker will have the correct tool as mentioned above, an example of which is the Bergeon 7052 (38mm version) – a circular tool which literally squeezes the bezel off the watch head. Other versions of this type of tool feature squeeze handles which make the job easier still.
There are other tools available under the label ‘bezel removal’ which feature four metal screwed blades which apply the necessary upward force at equal distance around the bezel.
Now it goes without saying that understandably the majority of people won’t have access to these tools and will be looking for a DIY method of bezel removal.
In these cases with suitable protection (i.e. electrical tape) applied to the top of the lugs it is possible to pry the bezel off the watch head using a very thin (but strong) blade. This is achieved by inserting the blade between the bezel and the watch head and prying upwards. Even with the protection mentioned above this is a little risky from two perspectives: damage to the watch case and/or deforming the bezel itself. There is no ‘best point’ around the bezel at which to insert a blade and it may be necessary to pry one side up and then another before the bezel releases from the case. Be aware that the sleeved bearings may fall out dependent on the position of the watch and they are very hard to find once dropped!
Searching for bezel removal online you may find reference to using a credit card or guitar plectrum even – these are unlikely to work in this case as they are just not strong enough for the upward force required.
We have been ruminating on the bezel subject for a few days now and as we have done throughout the campaign, we just want to make people happy. So how can we do so now for those who thought that bezel removal and replacement was simple and quick and very much DIY? I’ve chatted it through with my wife and we’ve come to the conclusion that it might be best turned over to you, our backers.
So here’s our offer to you: if you feel disappointed with the bezel situation then just send me a message via Kickstarter with your spares invoice number before (and including) Friday 24th January and I’ll refund you for your bezel(s). I don’t think I can be fairer than that but we’d like to conclude things now.
Thanks for reading this update and hopefully it helps things along.
Best wishes
Ewan and Sureerat
*************
Dear all
This update primarily concerns the spare bezels that some have ordered.
There has been some controversy and disappointment that the bezel on the Newmark 71 isn’t easily removed. I think that some people might have been under the impression that the bezel can be easily popped off with a finger nail or such.
We designed the watch to tight tolerances to ensure that it would be long lasting and robust and of course this included the bezel mechanism. During the campaign we were asked if spare bezels could be made available to which I agreed in order to be as accommodating as possible; I did stress that bezel removal was at owner’s risk and that it was perhaps best left to a watchmaker (who would have the tools and experience required). So the spares were offered in good faith as I am sure you can appreciate.
All spare bezels will have come with a printed sheet detailing what was included with each:
Metal bezel
Bezel insert
3 x Sprung ball bearings
1 x Bezel retaining spring
All the above parts are separate, the bezel insert has just been placed within the bezel itself for protection – it is not attached to the bezel.
Firstly, let’s assume that the original bezel has been removed.
The watch head will show 3 sprung bearings at the 10, 2 and 6 positions. These are in sleeves which need to be removed by using tweezers.
The new bezel is fitted in the following order:
The replacement sprung bearings should be inserted into the holes on the watch head at the 10, 2 and 6 positions
The wire bezel retaining spring should be inserted into the recess running around the inside of the replacement metal bezel. You will notice the ‘flats’ of this spring protruding slightly from the recess – this is what holds the bezel in place with the flats riding within a similar recess on the watch head.
The metal bezel (without insert) should be pressed onto the watch head with equal pressure round its circumference and with a slight anti clockwise rotation as it is pressed. Successful mounting will result in a ‘click’ as the flats of the retaining spring snap into place within the recess on the watch head. This operation may require a little force (again, due to the design and manufacturing tolerances).
At this stage the rotating bezel is now in place on the watch head but without the insert.
The bezel insert features a self-adhesive ring on its underside which is extremely strong. To mount the insert then the paper cover should be removed from the adhesive ring in the first instance. The next stage is where extreme caution must be taken in lining the bezel insert up correctly with the dial markings and pressing into place within the metal bezel itself. It is worth having a ‘dry run’ first with the protective paper attached to get the technique of inserting the insert smoothly.
The newly fitted bezel is now a complete bezel and can be used as such should it need removing and refitting in the future. No need to try and remove the bezel insert!
And so to the chestnut of bezel removal. Firstly, it has to be reiterated that removing the bezel by prying it off with fingernails will all but likely be impossible, dependent of course on how strong your fingernails and indeed fingers are. Not impossible but very unlikely.
Successful bezel removal will rely on equal force being applied around the circumference of the bezel. There is the slightest of gaps between the bezel and the watch case which will allow the correct tool to squeeze the bezel upward and so pulling the flats of the retaining spring out of the recess in the watch head.
A competent watchmaker will have the correct tool as mentioned above, an example of which is the Bergeon 7052 (38mm version) – a circular tool which literally squeezes the bezel off the watch head. Other versions of this type of tool feature squeeze handles which make the job easier still.
There are other tools available under the label ‘bezel removal’ which feature four metal screwed blades which apply the necessary upward force at equal distance around the bezel.
Now it goes without saying that understandably the majority of people won’t have access to these tools and will be looking for a DIY method of bezel removal.
In these cases with suitable protection (i.e. electrical tape) applied to the top of the lugs it is possible to pry the bezel off the watch head using a very thin (but strong) blade. This is achieved by inserting the blade between the bezel and the watch head and prying upwards. Even with the protection mentioned above this is a little risky from two perspectives: damage to the watch case and/or deforming the bezel itself. There is no ‘best point’ around the bezel at which to insert a blade and it may be necessary to pry one side up and then another before the bezel releases from the case. Be aware that the sleeved bearings may fall out dependent on the position of the watch and they are very hard to find once dropped!
Searching for bezel removal online you may find reference to using a credit card or guitar plectrum even – these are unlikely to work in this case as they are just not strong enough for the upward force required.
We have been ruminating on the bezel subject for a few days now and as we have done throughout the campaign, we just want to make people happy. So how can we do so now for those who thought that bezel removal and replacement was simple and quick and very much DIY? I’ve chatted it through with my wife and we’ve come to the conclusion that it might be best turned over to you, our backers.
So here’s our offer to you: if you feel disappointed with the bezel situation then just send me a message via Kickstarter with your spares invoice number before (and including) Friday 24th January and I’ll refund you for your bezel(s). I don’t think I can be fairer than that but we’d like to conclude things now.
Thanks for reading this update and hopefully it helps things along.
Best wishes
Ewan and Sureerat
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