A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
I had an hour or so spare yesterday afternoon and decided to visit a watch shop to try on a few watches.
The shop sells about 30 brands, including the likes of ALS, PP and VC that (along with AP) are regarded by many as the best finished watches money can buy.
Over the years I have tried on various models from the above brands and decided it was pointless trying on watches that I no longer have any interest in buying.
An opportunity then to try on a couple of brands that in my view don’t get the recognition that they deserve and where the buyer is not paying such a premium for the name on the dial, as is unfortunately the case with many other brands.
Grand Seiko:
My first opportunity to try on a few models from the Evolution 9 collection.
Many of the collection have upgraded movements with an increased power reserve on both the spring drive and high beat models. I really like the idea of a 5 day SD movement, however the most important aspects to me of any watch are the dial, indices, hands and case finishing relative to the price point, closely followed by the bracelet. Whilst there is still no micro adjustment to the bracelet, it should still be possible to obtain a good fit, due to the half links. With a lug width of 22mm on a 40mm case the bracelet flows from the slim lugs and to me has the vibe of an integrated bracelet. The watch sits flat on the wrist and I prefer the case shape to the more angular 44GS or 62GS design language.
The dial and other bits? Let’s just say I found myself smiling and thinking “finishing looks more attractive to me than far, far more expensive brands and with the benefit of an interesting case shape”.
I also tried on a titanium version, with the same pattern on the dial. Lovely, but I prefer the white birch. Another that caught my eye was a GMT from the E9 collection, albeit with a different case to the two above. I really like the austere look of the dial and the point that it doesn’t have a coloured GMT hand. If I was looking for a current model black dial, fixed steel bezel GMT I would take this in preference to the current model Explorer 2. The final GS that I tried on was one that I have been keen to check out since it released in 2021. A blue dial looked better than it does in most pics on the internet. I like it but thought it didn’t sit on the wrist as well as the black dial model above. I then just about had enough time to try on a Zenith Defy Skyline. I really wanted to like this watch. Good finishing, with attractive bevels and facets, an interesting dial, an integrated bracelet… However to me it just felt too chunky for the style of watch. I was also unsure what I would think about the seconds hand that wizzes around the dial once every 10 seconds. When I first put the watch on the hand wasn’t moving and I was able to concentrate on the dial and case. However after a bit of hand movement it started wizzing around. Nope I don’t think I could get used to that.
A time to try and a time to buy? When entering the shop I made it clear that I was just looking, to try and decide what watch to buy next, whilst avoiding the usual suspects. They still offered me a cup of coffee and the sales chap who I spoke to, who clearly knew about many brands, asked if he could look at my watch, whilst I was trying on the GS models. He was surprised when I mentioned that the store used to sell Moser, but stopped stocking them a few years ago, due to lack of demand.
When we had a chat about what other brands I owned, he didn’t show me the door when I mentioned that I had a few CWs. He admitted not knowing that much about the brand, so I told him that mine happily existed alongside some more esteemed brands.
A pleasant way to spend an hour or so before meeting friends and reinforcement of my view that “try before you buy” is essential, particularly when the sums involved are painful.
Neil
The shop sells about 30 brands, including the likes of ALS, PP and VC that (along with AP) are regarded by many as the best finished watches money can buy.
Over the years I have tried on various models from the above brands and decided it was pointless trying on watches that I no longer have any interest in buying.
An opportunity then to try on a couple of brands that in my view don’t get the recognition that they deserve and where the buyer is not paying such a premium for the name on the dial, as is unfortunately the case with many other brands.
Grand Seiko:
My first opportunity to try on a few models from the Evolution 9 collection.
Many of the collection have upgraded movements with an increased power reserve on both the spring drive and high beat models. I really like the idea of a 5 day SD movement, however the most important aspects to me of any watch are the dial, indices, hands and case finishing relative to the price point, closely followed by the bracelet. Whilst there is still no micro adjustment to the bracelet, it should still be possible to obtain a good fit, due to the half links. With a lug width of 22mm on a 40mm case the bracelet flows from the slim lugs and to me has the vibe of an integrated bracelet. The watch sits flat on the wrist and I prefer the case shape to the more angular 44GS or 62GS design language.
The dial and other bits? Let’s just say I found myself smiling and thinking “finishing looks more attractive to me than far, far more expensive brands and with the benefit of an interesting case shape”.
I also tried on a titanium version, with the same pattern on the dial. Lovely, but I prefer the white birch. Another that caught my eye was a GMT from the E9 collection, albeit with a different case to the two above. I really like the austere look of the dial and the point that it doesn’t have a coloured GMT hand. If I was looking for a current model black dial, fixed steel bezel GMT I would take this in preference to the current model Explorer 2. The final GS that I tried on was one that I have been keen to check out since it released in 2021. A blue dial looked better than it does in most pics on the internet. I like it but thought it didn’t sit on the wrist as well as the black dial model above. I then just about had enough time to try on a Zenith Defy Skyline. I really wanted to like this watch. Good finishing, with attractive bevels and facets, an interesting dial, an integrated bracelet… However to me it just felt too chunky for the style of watch. I was also unsure what I would think about the seconds hand that wizzes around the dial once every 10 seconds. When I first put the watch on the hand wasn’t moving and I was able to concentrate on the dial and case. However after a bit of hand movement it started wizzing around. Nope I don’t think I could get used to that.
A time to try and a time to buy? When entering the shop I made it clear that I was just looking, to try and decide what watch to buy next, whilst avoiding the usual suspects. They still offered me a cup of coffee and the sales chap who I spoke to, who clearly knew about many brands, asked if he could look at my watch, whilst I was trying on the GS models. He was surprised when I mentioned that the store used to sell Moser, but stopped stocking them a few years ago, due to lack of demand.
When we had a chat about what other brands I owned, he didn’t show me the door when I mentioned that I had a few CWs. He admitted not knowing that much about the brand, so I told him that mine happily existed alongside some more esteemed brands.
A pleasant way to spend an hour or so before meeting friends and reinforcement of my view that “try before you buy” is essential, particularly when the sums involved are painful.
Neil
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
Thanks for the write-up.
I wonder if that ten second, second hand would cause you to speed up - even imperceptibly? You might find that at the end of the day you have ten minutes left over for starting a new hobby!
The stand-out from this, for me, is the GS GMT with the same-coloured GMT hand. I don’t think I’ve ever seen that done before and I think it’s fantastic. I’m not really one for ‘pops of colour’ on a seconds hand or GMT hand. It certainly makes the GS look very classy. Legibility? I suppose you had to be there.
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
The titanium gs would be my pick Neil. Did you spot the pinkish 4 seasons 'spring' version while you were there?
Cheers now, Paul
Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
^^^ Paul I think they did have at least a couple of the four seasons models. As expected they all looked splendid in the case, but I didn’t try any others on.
Lindsey IIRC there is also a new monochrome vibe 39mm quartz GMT that has a similar vibe to the SD that I tried on. And yes I also think the “it’s a GMT hand let’s make it orange” school of thought is overdone. And disconcerting is the best way that I can describe the wizzing seconds hand on the Skyline.
Neil
Lindsey IIRC there is also a new monochrome vibe 39mm quartz GMT that has a similar vibe to the SD that I tried on. And yes I also think the “it’s a GMT hand let’s make it orange” school of thought is overdone. And disconcerting is the best way that I can describe the wizzing seconds hand on the Skyline.
Neil
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
Interesting write up bud.
The Skyline would be my next purchase, but agree regarding the seconds hand... One of those " we can do do it but it's completely irrelevant and impractical" show off things brands do.
Moser is one of those brands that most often comes up on the " regret I didn't buy" lists when they were obtainable.
As for GS, absolutely outstanding, thoroughly enjoyed my time with the brand's icon, unfortunately just wasn't for me, but will definitely revisit at some point.
The Skyline would be my next purchase, but agree regarding the seconds hand... One of those " we can do do it but it's completely irrelevant and impractical" show off things brands do.
Moser is one of those brands that most often comes up on the " regret I didn't buy" lists when they were obtainable.
As for GS, absolutely outstanding, thoroughly enjoyed my time with the brand's icon, unfortunately just wasn't for me, but will definitely revisit at some point.
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
You walked out with the Moser. Result.
Steve
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Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, kill nothing but time
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
The white version of the GS Evolution 9 GMT is pretty much my dream watch. If it was smaller and cheaper.
Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
Certainly worth trying on. I have a feeling that you may conclude that it is as wearable as your Heritage Seamaster 300.sproughton wrote: ↑Wed Oct 12, 2022 8:42 pm The white version of the GS Evolution 9 GMT is pretty much my dream watch. If it was smaller and cheaper.
Neil
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
Thanks Chris.angusbon wrote: ↑Wed Oct 12, 2022 7:49 pm Interesting write up bud.
The Skyline would be my next purchase, but agree regarding the seconds hand... One of those " we can do do it but it's completely irrelevant and impractical" show off things brands do.
Moser is one of those brands that most often comes up on the " regret I didn't buy" lists when they were obtainable.
As for GS, absolutely outstanding, thoroughly enjoyed my time with the brand's icon, unfortunately just wasn't for me, but will definitely revisit at some point.
I think that on balance I prefer the previous titanium three hand version of the Defy. It certainly felt better on the wrist.
Hard to explain, but to me the Skyline felt more like a tool watch than the style of watch that it is trying to emulate. Now it’s fair to say I like a tool watch, but that’s not what I was looking for from the Skyline.
Now if they knocked a few mm off the height, 1mm off the case size and had a normal seconds hand - I would be very interested.
As to Moser I first tried one on at SQP in 2015 and ended up buying a preowned model the following year. I have often thought of moving it on, as I don’t often wear dress watches and thought I would stick to my Reverso. Fortunately common sense prevailed.
Neil
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
That was what I thought it would wear like. Despite loving the Seamaster it's definitely bigger than I like, would steer away from similar sizes in future. Maybe one to try on though, just in case.nbg wrote: ↑Thu Oct 13, 2022 11:36 amCertainly worth trying on. I have a feeling that you may conclude that it is as wearable as your Heritage Seamaster 300.sproughton wrote: ↑Wed Oct 12, 2022 8:42 pm The white version of the GS Evolution 9 GMT is pretty much my dream watch. If it was smaller and cheaper.
Neil
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
I do admire GS as a brand but those birch dials just do not work for me, not so keen on the spring drive GMT's either.
The Zenith is a decent looking watch if it wasn't that strange 10 second subdial offset at 9...what a strange complication and position on the dial, a standard 60 second subdial at 6 and the watch would be so much better.
The best looking watch you photographed above Neil was your own Moser.
The Zenith is a decent looking watch if it wasn't that strange 10 second subdial offset at 9...what a strange complication and position on the dial, a standard 60 second subdial at 6 and the watch would be so much better.
The best looking watch you photographed above Neil was your own Moser.
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
Great write up Neil, what an enjoyable way to spend an hour or so. Thanks for the reviews and pics.
The shape of the Zenith did it for me but definitely advocate trying on anything in the 'painful' bracket. It is a slightly odd complication.
With GS I can appreciate the individual elements but the 'whole' proposition just doesn't gel with me, can't explain why. I will have to try on at some point and see if I 'get it' more in person.
I agree with the above view that the Moser wins the day
The shape of the Zenith did it for me but definitely advocate trying on anything in the 'painful' bracket. It is a slightly odd complication.
With GS I can appreciate the individual elements but the 'whole' proposition just doesn't gel with me, can't explain why. I will have to try on at some point and see if I 'get it' more in person.
I agree with the above view that the Moser wins the day
Stephen
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
Interesting 'day out' Neil.
I think we share views on the Skyline, and I too prefer the 'old' titanium Defy Classic. I could wear that but not its replacement.
GS finishing really does stand up to almost anything! Although personally my skinny wrist is not a fan of their GMTs' relative thickness.
That Moser though, pure class.
I think we share views on the Skyline, and I too prefer the 'old' titanium Defy Classic. I could wear that but not its replacement.
GS finishing really does stand up to almost anything! Although personally my skinny wrist is not a fan of their GMTs' relative thickness.
That Moser though, pure class.
Chris
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
I think the seconds hand on the Zenith does exactly what it is intended to do. It makes it unique and special IMO. I might feel differently if it were my only watch, but we all know that’s not likely to ever be the case.
Time and money? I’ve spent most of mine on booze and women. The rest I just wasted…
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Re: A time to try and a time to buy - Grand Seiko and Zenith Content
I missed this thread first time around. I’m a GS convert with a strong preference towards the elegance case. Exceptional watches with incredible levels of finish. The highly polished mirrored hands and batons bring the watch to life. The Spring Drive technology and smooth sweep of the second hand is mesmerising.
Evo 9 range is definitely on the wish list
Evo 9 range is definitely on the wish list
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