Why no 24hr inner chapter ring on Trident Pro 300 GMT and Aquitaine GMT?

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Why no 24hr inner chapter ring on Trident Pro 300 GMT and Aquitaine GMT?

Post by nycWATCHnerd »

There appears to be some inconsistency in design and function on the following watches:

Sealander: fixed 24 hour bezel, 5-60 scale on dial
Dune: 24 hour inner chapter ring
Aquitaine: 24 hour rotating bezel
Trident Pro 300GMT: 24 hour rotating bezel

If the Aquitaine is a heritage diver with an included GMT function, shouldn't it have a 5-60 scale on the dial? Why add a rotating bezel which is often used on GMT watches to track a 3rd time zone when one cannot do that without 12 or 24 hour markers on the dial?

If the TP300GMT is a modern diver with an included GMT function, shouldn't it have a 5-60 scale on the dial? Why add a rotating bezel which is often used on GMT watches to track a 3rd time zone when one cannot do that without 12 or 24 hour markers on the dial?

Inquiring mind(s) want to know...

CWL Sealander GMT.JPG
CWL Dune.JPG
CWL Aquitaine GMT.JPG
CWL TP300GMT.JPG
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Re: Why no 24hr inner chapter ring on Trident Pro 300 GMT and Aquitaine GMT?

Post by Bahnstormer_vRS »

You better ask Adrian Buchmann and Will Brackfield; they designed the watches and no doubt had them approved by the powers that be within CW.

I've always taken the stance that the designers / brand know what they are doing and the look they want to achieve. If that matches with my preference and desire, I'll consider buying. If not, I'll walk on by.

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Re: Why no 24hr inner chapter ring on Trident Pro 300 GMT and Aquitaine GMT?

Post by goodbarista »

I think with the Aquitaine, it's difficult to do and keep the 5-60 scale legible. It would have to be a bigger scale like the chapter ring on the Dune because it's top hat crystal would probably completely distort any small text there. For the Dune, there's simply not enough space between the indices and the GMT chapter ring. Would make the dial too cluttered.
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Re: Why no 24hr inner chapter ring on Trident Pro 300 GMT and Aquitaine GMT?

Post by foxes1884 »

I might get shot down here as I’m guessing but for me the Aquitaine and Trident are both divers and the rotating bezel is for diving / oxygen left and nothing to do with the GMT movement per se. :?

Edit: ment to say you wouldn’t need the GMT whilst diving so bezel is multitasking in these watches for different scenarios.
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Re: Why no 24hr inner chapter ring on Trident Pro 300 GMT and Aquitaine GMT?

Post by nycWATCHnerd »

@goodbarista
@foxes1884

That is why one should not add a GMT function to a "Diver" watch because then you might lose the 5-60 scale needed for diving but you do not have the full GMT function either. Not always the best compromise.

Seiko made a similar compromise with their spb381/383 series diver. It was a diver first and then they too added the GMT function with a 24hr chapter ring. Almost every review I have read/watched states: it is a diver with a GMT function.
SPB381_1.png
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Re: Why no 24hr inner chapter ring on Trident Pro 300 GMT and Aquitaine GMT?

Post by rkovars »

It is easy enough to remember where the cardinal numbers are on the dial (24, 6, 12, 18). I don't have any trouble at all tracking three zones without an inner 24 hour ring. I set my C65 GMT to UTC using the dial and then rotate the bezel for a third zone.

The Dune is a different style GMT so the inner bezel works there I think. I think the driver for this design is to have a more svelte field style watch with a GMT function.

To me a fixed inner timing ring isn't all that useful.


@foxes1884 The timing bezel on a diver was never used for monitoring oxygen. It was for tracking bottom time for no decompression or bottom time and then subsequent decompression stops. Oxygen was always monitored with a pressure gauge. Now it is all in the computer with backup gauges on the tank.
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