Battery for C6 Kingfisher

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Gavstrad
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Battery for C6 Kingfisher

Post by Gavstrad »

Hi all

New to the forum, but not new to CW. Really like the brand and now have a few in my collection.

My first CW watch was a C6 Kingfisher Quartz and for the past few years it has sat in a drawer with a dead battery. I live in SE Queensland, Australia and when I tried to get the battery changed, I got many stores saying they wouldn’t touch it... they said they didn’t have the correct “official parts”.

Can anyone help point me in the direction to purchase the correct battery & o-ring on the internet? I don’t want to send the watch back to CW, as the post costs are just ridiculous and the turnaround is months.

Thanks for any feedback/advice.
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Re: Battery for C6 Kingfisher

Post by Kip »

Information on the C6 Kingfisher can be found in the CWArchives. Here are the specifics on the C6. Click on the movement # for the battery number.

The CWArchives does not include part numbers, but an o ring is pretty generic, I would think that a competent jeweler would stock these. I suspect the issue is more about having the proper equipment to open the case back without damage.
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Re: Battery for C6 Kingfisher

Post by Gavstrad »

Thanks for the links and advice. Really helpful stuff!
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Re: Battery for C6 Kingfisher

Post by tikkathree »

Currently I don't possess a quartz C6 (but you could ask me again in a few days....) otherwise I'd pop the back and give you the battery details.

Does your C6 have the same back as my C6 and C600? You see the little case back tool which cost a couple of quid on EBay several years ago and is my "go to" tool for removing every screwed case back irrespective of the shape of the locating holes?

Of course some will say that you absolutely must replace the O ring case back seal but let me ask you this: how deeply do you immerse your watch?

Tool, battery, O ring: the online market stall is your friend.

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Re: Battery for C6 Kingfisher

Post by gaf1958 »

I bought about a hundred 0.9mm thick case gaskets off eBay in a range of sizes. Cost less than $10. Batteries ditto, I just buy a couple of the required model when a battery needs replacing (unless I already have one that is in-date).

I use a cheap but effective case back opener with three attachment points, but the two point one that Pete showed is equally effective; perhaps even slightly less likely to slip if the case back is tight.

Always wear a pair of cotton or rubber /silicone gloves when replacing a battery, so you don’t leave finger grease on it, which can cause early corrosion.

Any place using the excuses they gave you are just being pretentious; essentially trying to say that your brand is not as good as the brands they sell. For god’s sake it’s a simple battery change, all they need is the right battery, a case opener and (perhaps) 1 cents worth of gasket.

Just find a large-ish jeweller with an on-site watch tech. They should be able to get it done for you in half an hour for very little cost. Some even have the capacity to do limited pressure tests (usually only 3atm, but it’s enough to tell you if the o-ring is sitting correctly).
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Re: Battery for C6 Kingfisher

Post by watchaholic »

If going the "do it yourself route," and purchasing a few tools I would also recommend the silicone grease to lubricate the o-ring as you tighten the case back. The container I have is actually a sponge with the grease impregnated in it. Drop in the o-ring, smear it around a bit, Very hard to get the proper fit, and seal without this step. Good luck
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Re: Battery for C6 Kingfisher

Post by gaf1958 »

watchaholic wrote:If going the "do it yourself route," and purchasing a few tools I would also recommend the silicone grease to lubricate the o-ring as you tighten the case back. The container I have is actually a sponge with the grease impregnated in it. Drop in the o-ring, smear it around a bit, Very hard to get the proper fit, and seal without this step. Good luck
Good advice that I omitted. I have a jar of Seiko grease on a sponge that has the seemingly magical property of never running out...
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tikkathree
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Re: Battery for C6 Kingfisher

Post by tikkathree »

gaf1958 wrote:
watchaholic wrote:If going the "do it yourself route," and purchasing a few tools I would also recommend the silicone grease to lubricate the o-ring as you tighten the case back. The container I have is actually a sponge with the grease impregnated in it. Drop in the o-ring, smear it around a bit, Very hard to get the proper fit, and seal without this step. Good luck
Good advice that I omitted. I have a jar of Seiko grease on a sponge that has the seemingly magical property of never running out...
Yes, a simple silicone supply is one of those "last forever " purchases.Image

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tikkathree
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Re: Battery for C6 Kingfisher

Post by tikkathree »

Here you go. Back off, photo taken, back on. 10 minutes.Image

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C60 MKI, MKII, MKIII: "some",
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C600 Tritechs,
C63 "some",
C65 "some",
C4, C40, C8, C9, C3, C5, C20 & 23FLE
Some other brands
Gavstrad
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Re: Battery for C6 Kingfisher

Post by Gavstrad »

Thanks everyone for the detailed advice. Really appreciated.

I’ve decided to go the DIY path and ordered a few tools off eBay. I’ve also found that a local store sells the 371 Energizer batteries.
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tikkathree
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Re: Battery for C6 Kingfisher

Post by tikkathree »

Gavstrad wrote:Thanks everyone for the detailed advice. Really appreciated.

I’ve decided to go the DIY path and ordered a few tools off eBay. I’ve also found that a local store sells the 371 Energizer batteries.
You'll not regret it. Plenty of stuff on youtube "removing a watch back" etc.

Dont be surprised if yours is very firm at first.

The plastic thing which fits over the movement and battery acting as a spacer between them and the case back; study it before lifting it straight off - there are interference fit ears.

Dont be afraid of taking photos as you progress.

Sometimes case backs locate on their threads straight away, sometimes not. I usually rotate the back slowly in the wrong direction until I feel the back dropping into place. If you feel resistance straight away it's cross-threaded so back off, slow down and start again.

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C60 MKI, MKII, MKIII: "some",
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C600 Tritechs,
C63 "some",
C65 "some",
C4, C40, C8, C9, C3, C5, C20 & 23FLE
Some other brands
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